By Cosimo Baldi
Nature has always been an inspiration for designers, in every age, in very corner of the world. From design to creative direction, the natural world has always provided a creative boost to anyone who has ever worked in the fashion industry. But what if there was another way to develop this theme? In the world of contemporary design, few manage to capture the essence of nature in a raw, real, and striking manner, while at the same time being astonishing. Few do it as well as Anna Tessarin.
The Italian designer, a graduate from IED school in Rome, takes us on a fascinating journey through the contrasting forces of natural beauty with her project ‘Spinosa‘: on one side, delicacy and grace, on the other, the inherent strength in the thorns of the most beautiful flowers. Tessarin masterfully blends streetwear and punk aesthetics into creations that not only adorn the body but also tell a story of rebellion, resistance, and respect for nature.
How did your passion for fashion start, and why did you decide to specialize in the jewelry field?
I have always had an innate passion for fashion and especially for jewelry, for as long as I can remember. When I was younger, I always created accessories from scraps. My father used to ride a bike, and I liked using the inner tube from his bike tires, which sometimes broke, to create new objects. The material is very similar to synthetic leather, and this allowed me to create more and more things. As I grew older, I decided to deepen this passion and make it more professional and mature. After working for two years and attending a completely different school, without a solid artistic background, I decided to enroll at IED. That year was fantastic because a series of events led me to enroll in that school. I felt like an external energy pushed me, which allowed me to develop my admission project and win my scholarship.
Your project have a very particular aesthetic. Do you think that, in addition to possible external inspirations, you also put a lot of personal human legacy into it?
Absolutely, I consider myself an emotional person, which might seem like a weakness, but I play a lot with this, which tends to make me sometimes very aggressive. Like many people, it is also a way to hide my weaknesses. My concept has always been this: creating objects by playing with my ‘aggressive fragility.’ My main works have these very sharp forms reminiscent of rose thorns, hence the name of the project, ‘Spinosa.’ The additional idea was to represent nature, tired of being exploited and used at will by humans, rebelling and becoming this kind of sentient and conscious being. I was also inspired by the concept of natural malignancy described by the writer Giacomo Leopardi. The project is also stylistically based on my past interactions with the punk and streetwear environments.
Do you think the environment around you has influenced your work?
Obviously, everything around us and what we perceive can influence us personally and artistically.
Your social page is very curated. How important do you think it is nowadays to take care of the communicative side of your work, in addition to the technical one?
It is very important. I personally tend to care a lot about everything around me. I am very focused on surround myself with beautiful and well-made things, so it is something I care a lot about. My profile is a way to present myself, so I want it to be as truthful as possible. My professors always joked that they saw me more as an Art Director inside, which is due to my obsession with always conveying my work well. I am a bit of a control freak in this regard, and I am also passionate about graphics, which I have been very self-taught in.
When it comes to shootings, fashion shows, and fashion projects, how important is attention to detail on a scale of 1 to 10?
10. Absolutely. Because when it comes to fashion, anyone could wear anything, but what changes is the meaning we manage to convey, the way we care for details, and our strategy in showing them. Styling, in particular, can bring 60% of the success of a work.
What advice would you give to someone who, like you, wants to pursue a career in this field?
It is important to be very curious and always eager to learn, travel, and venture out of what we believe to be our fields of expertise. I think this is important in the fashion field. Personally, I never feel ‘arrived,’ and I don’t think I ever will. I love learning, even through direct experience in the field. Therefore, I advise being always curious, having a great hunger for knowledge, and being determined. It is a very tough world.
Anna Tessarin’s vision of nature is complex and layered. On one hand, nature is seen as a benign force, a source of life that gives humanity oxygen and beauty. On the other, it hides an aggressive side, an armor ready to rebel against injustices and fight for its survival. This duality is perfectly embodied in the ‘Spinosa‘ collection, which draws inspiration from both the streetwear and punk worlds, two cultural movements known for their rebellious and non-conformist spirit.
The aforementioned project, ‘Spinosa,’ is characterized by sharp lines and angular shapes reminiscent of a flower’s thorns. These jewels, although extremely elegant and refined, carry a warning message: one can enjoy their beauty, but one must be careful not to take advantage of them, as they can sting.
An emblematic example of the collection is the silver ring. This piece, with its sinuous curves and sharp points, perfectly captures the essence of the collection. The shine of the silver contrasts with the threatening shape of the spikes, creating a perfect balance between beauty and danger.
Another extraordinary piece is the black metal mask. This accessory, which partially covers the face, is a true manifesto of Tessarin’s vision. The mask’s aggressive and sharp lines, extending like tentacles, evoke a sense of power and protection, while the complex and intricate design adds a touch of mystery and charm.
Completing the picture is a black sculptural earring that wraps around the ear with sharp points and sinuous shapes. This piece not only enhances the natural beauty of the face but also serves as a symbol of strength and resilience. The bold and innovative design perfectly reflects the influence of punk and streetwear, blending elements of rebellion with a refined contemporary aesthetic.
The ‘Spinosa’ collection is not only a celebration of natural beauty but also a commentary on the intrinsic strength that nature possesses. Tessarin sees nature as an entity that, while generous, also needs to defend itself. This vision translates into jewelry that is both ornaments and symbolic weapons, ready to protect those who wear them.
Anna Tessarin, with her ‘Spinosa‘ project, invites us to reflect on the complexity of nature and our relationship with it. Her creations are a hymn to natural beauty but also a reminder to respect and protect what nature offers us. In a world where appearances often take center stage, Tessarin reminds us that true beauty lies in the balance between grace and strength, delicacy and resilience.
Anna Tessarin’s jewelry is destined for those who are not afraid to stand out, who see beauty not only as something to admire but also as something to defend. With ‘Spinosa,’ Tessarin shows us that nature, like a beautiful flower with sharp thorns, can be as fascinating as it is formidable.”
