by Cosimo Baldi
Emerging with an original and provocative vision in the contemporary fashion landscape is not easy. Yet, Elena Morelli, with her graduation collection, succeeds with extraordinary mastery. Through a technical and innovative eye, Elena guides us on a journey through the centuries, offering a new perspective on how fashion can be a powerful tool for emancipation and self-affirmation.
What gave the idea for the concept of your graduation project?
My graduation collection is based on a careful study of the history of women’s costumes, which have always been subject to societal prejudices and controls, in any era. Even today, there are still times when society judges women by how they want to dress. Analyzing each historical phase in general, it is clear that the female figure has always been forced to wear impossible clothes to highlight certain body parts and hide others. Starting from this concept, I was able to develop the collection.
How do you think you conveyed this particular message in your clothes?
By emphasizing parts of women’s clothing that had never been highlighted before. For example, muscle mass, imitated in the garments through the use of increased proportions in the sleeves of jackets, coats, or around the waist, where the belly has never been well accepted. Through pattern making, I positively underlined what is normally considered a defect, and so, costumes that throughout history have always aimed to oppress women are reworked to give value to all types of female bodies, to learn from history and enhance the present. My main intent was to send a message, I wanted my collection to convey that, also thanks to the use of masks, the focus should be mainly on the garment and the body wearing it. Fashion is a very powerful means of communication, so I believe it is important to bring messages to the catwalk; a lot can be communicated through it.
On what did you base your choice of materials and colors?
We had the task of choosing a preferred season, and I chose winter because I personally like it more. The materials I used are mainly a variety of wools and tweeds, for some jackets mainly tailored fabrics, and I also opted for very neutral colors.
Looking at the pieces in your collection, there is a strong sense of neutrality, both in the silhouettes and, as you said, in the colors. When you think of a project, do you think that exaggeration in terms of aesthetics might distract from the enhancement of the wearer’s body?
An exaggerated aesthetic obviously leads you to focus more on other aspects than the construction of the garment or the more studied detail. In my personal case, with the intent of sending a message, I thought that a more exaggerated part could emphasize what I wanted to convey, but at the same time, I tried to create something a bit more tailored and constructed, because beyond personal taste, that was my starting idea; everything depends on what we want to convey through our creations.
What are your hopes for the future?
Difficult question, the future when it comes to career is always a bit uncertain, but I am quite confident in the path I have taken. I hope to first and foremost learn the trade well; I am at a stage where I think I can always learn more, and then maybe in the future, try to realize all my dreams.
The collection, presented at Fashion Graduate Italia 2022, stands out for its ability to combine a deep historical reflection with innovative and provocative design, while remaining elegant and carefully incorporating tailored elements. Through the use of classic materials, Morelli explores the historical constraints imposed on the female body and reinterprets them in a modern way to emphasize and enhance the physical features that society has often tried to hide.
The silhouettes presented are voluminous and sculptural, as seen in the coats with exaggerated sleeves and shoulders, drawing attention to body parts traditionally considered flaws. The masks used during the show direct attention to the body and the garment, removing the focus from the face and inviting the viewer to reflect more deeply on the messages conveyed by the collection.
The neutral colors and sober shapes underscore Morelli’s intent to create pieces that speak more through their construction than through a superficial aesthetic, maintaining a balance between exaggeration and tailoring. This collection is a clear example of how fashion can be used not only as an artistic expression but also as a powerful means of social communication, emancipation, and self-affirmation.
With her careful analysis of costume history and innovative reinterpretation of silhouettes, she has demonstrated remarkable ability to reflect on social dynamics through her garments. Looking to the future, we can expect Elena to continue exploring and growing in the fashion world, bringing with her the same passion and dedication that characterized her graduation collection. With her talent and vision, Elena is destined to make a difference in the contemporary fashion scene.
