by Cosimo Baldi

November 2023. Far from the Neapolitan coasts now cooled by winter breezes, the Miss Europe Continental contest unfolds within the famous Mediterranean Theater. During the competition, two participants capture the audience’s attention with outfits rich in technique and style. The dress that graces the runway is highly elaborate, combining various design elements to create a dramatic and unique effect. The upper part is form-fitting and features an intricate hand-embroidered pattern in a combination of deep violet and pale pink. The cape draping from the shoulders starts with a shimmering, metallic effect that gradually fades downward, almost resembling wings.

The lower part of the dress is equally spectacular, characterized by wide layers of tulle that form voluminous ruffles. These layers take on a smoky violet hue, creating a striking contrast with the upper part. What adds an extra element of luxury to the dress is the glitter effect that the tulle layers reveal and highlight with every movement. This combination of elegance and spectacle captures everyone’s attention, not only for its aesthetic appeal but also for the incredible craftsmanship behind its creation. The designer of this singular piece is Chiara Messina, a Sicilian designer who, thanks to this special occasion, has been able to showcase her talent on an international platform, proving that her vision can be appreciated and celebrated not only in her native country but also beyond national borders.

But as with all great stories, one wonders: where did it all begin?

Her passion for fashion was “born” between her mother’s tailoring shop and her father’s restoration workshop, where she developed a deep love for fabrics and art. However, Messina’s interests also extended to mathematics and drawing, fields that would later be fundamental in her study of pattern-making.

“Growing up surrounded by buttons and works of art, I always loved the idea of creating clothes. Art has always been in my veins since I was a child, and my family background helped me a lot.”

But your studies weren’t always focused solely on fashion, wasn’t it?

“Exactly. I started in the audiovisual field because I have always been fascinated by technology, artificial intelligence, and graphics in general. By combining these interests with my passion for fashion, I decided to study to become a CAD pattern maker. I enrolled at Harim – Accademia Euromediterranea, where I began my four-year training course and specialized in fashion design. There, I studied not only style and fabrics but also everything related to tailoring and pattern-making. I believe that today, a good designer must also know these subjects to design a garment properly. I often ask myself when I draw, ‘How will it stand up?’ A question that’s impossible to answer without knowing at least the basics.”

Your collection “Fuoco di ghiaccio” has been very successful. Can you tell us more about this project?

“When it came time to present my final thesis, I felt the need to create something different. I wanted to design and experiment with something new. Today’s fashion is saturated, and it’s easy to run out of ideas, but I believe that in this rich environment, there are many sources of inspiration. In the end, I managed to graphically design 30 pieces, though I only made five for the academic fashion show.”

Was there a specific theme you were inspired by?

“I was inspired by a particular moment in nature when, after a violent volcanic eruption, the ashes released into the atmosphere block the sunlight, creating small, localized ice ages. This concept shaped the entire color palette. I used organza to create all the ‘icy’ shades, while for the lava, I chose tulle and gave it a ‘degradé’ effect.”

What techniques did you use to create your pieces?

“All the garments in the collection (as well as the embroidery on the outfit I created for Miss Europe) are entirely handmade. I manually gathered and cut all 300 meters of tulle needed, onto which I then applied embroidery. For the organza pieces, I dyed all 50 meters by hand using the immersion technique, then defined the colors using a spray technique.”

Did CAD technology also play a role in developing the collection?

“Certainly, I created 3D renderings of the garments.”

Both graphically and technically, this seems like a meticulously crafted and time-consuming project. How long did it take you to complete it?

“When I first showed the concept to my university advisor, he said, ‘This looks like a really challenging project. Are you sure you can complete it in time?’ My immediate response was, ‘I will definitely manage; it will be a busy period, but I truly believe in this project.’ I started with pattern-making, which was already quite complex for the organza pieces. I began in January and finished in June—five months of work.”

Five months that were certainly well rewarded, and if I’m not mistaken, the results also earned you several accolades.

“After the graduation show, this project gained a lot of attention. It was featured in Vogue Italia and later presented at Fashion Graduate Italia 2022. Thanks to the event’s impact, I was contacted by several showrooms in Milan, where one piece from the collection was chosen for a photoshoot in Paris. I was later selected for a fashion event in Giardini Naxos, where I received the Fashion and Creativity Award. From there came the request from Miss Europe, where my project was chosen precisely because I made the use of chromatics and materials from ‘Fuoco di ghiaccio’ my personal signature.”

Is the Miss Europe garment also handmade?

“Exactly. The entire dress is hand-embroidered using the satin stitch.”

As a CAD pattern maker, you pay particular attention to the graphic/digital aspect of each project. How important do you think it is to use new technologies in fashion? Do you believe we should continue to apply new technologies to the production process, or do you think (as many others do) that they could somehow harm the designer’s human touch?

“It all depends on how they are used. As I mentioned before, using 3D avatars allows me to create fewer prototypes in favor of sustainable fashion.”

“Fuoco di ghiaccio” is a title that perfectly encapsulates the dichotomy and harmony that characterize this collection. The pieces presented by Chiara are a visual and tactile exploration of two opposing elements—fire and ice, heat and cold—that are skillfully intertwined through the use of entirely handmade and sartorial techniques. Tulle and organza, light and ethereal, are the undisputed protagonists of this collection, all hand-dyed and embroidered using the satin stitch technique, with the application of beads or hard stones in chromatic harmony with the base fabric. The entire collection stands out for its entirely handmade craftsmanship, an art that the designer masters with a skill that blends tradition and innovation.

Each dress in the collection is a standalone work of art, where the material, cut, and chromatic modification are transformed into fabric sculptures that envelop the body with unparalleled lightness and refinement. The materials, known for their fragility, become under Chiara’s expert hands a powerful and versatile means of expression. Every fold, every gathering, every layering is designed to evoke different sensations—from the enveloping warmth of flames to the ethereal cold of ice.

The dresses seem to embody an explosion of smoke clouds, crafted in tulle of various colors, ranging from blush pink to charcoal gray, that wraps around the model’s body like a second skin, enhancing her figure with a play of volumes and transparencies. The puffed sleeves, enriched with layered tulle, give a sense of movement and dynamism, while the fitted bodice, adorned with geometric details, evokes the idea of a modern armor—a symbol of strength and delicacy at the same time.

The soft lines and sculptural shapes of organza create a continuous, fluid movement reminiscent of the waves of a frozen sea. The contrasting warm and cold colors and the soft texture of the fabric transport the viewer into an enchanted world, where ice is not just a natural element but a metaphor for the resilience and beauty that can emerge even in the most adverse conditions.

What makes Chiara Messina’s collection unique is not only her manual skill but also her ability to merge this craftsmanship with the most advanced technologies. Chiara has managed to combine the ancient techniques of fabric processing, passed down from generation to generation, with the possibilities offered by CAD (Computer-Aided Design) technology. This approach allowed her to create complex and detailed models that not only respect sartorial traditions but also push them toward new frontiers.

The use of CAD technology in creating “Fuoco di ghiaccio” enabled Chiara to design with millimeter precision every detail, from the fabric’s cut to the placement of pleats, ensuring perfection that would be difficult to achieve with traditional tools alone. However, despite the use of technology, each piece retains a handcrafted soul, evident in the care and passion that shines through every stitch and every fold.

The quality and originality of Chiara Messina’s collection did not go unnoticed. “Fuoco di ghiaccio” captured the attention of Vogue Italia, which featured it in a spread along with her fellow students, celebrating her ability to innovate while staying true to the roots of Italian sartorial tradition. This recognition was just the beginning of a series of successes that led Chiara to win a prestigious award, cementing her position as one of the most promising emerging designers of her generation.

Chiara Messina is a designer whose work not only expresses a deep knowledge of fashion but also a poetic sensibility that shines through every creation. Her ability to work with tulle, to transform it into a living material that tells stories of fire and ice, is a testament to her unique talent. In a constantly evolving fashion world, where technology and craftsmanship often seem to follow divergent paths, Chiara demonstrates that it is possible to create a perfect balance between tradition and innovation.

“Fuoco di ghiaccio” is only the beginning of a journey already rich with successes and recognition.

With her innovative spirit and dedication to the art of tailoring, combined with a keen passion for new technologies, Chiara Messina is establishing herself as one of the most intriguing and influential voices in contemporary fashion. The future of fashion is in the hands of designers like her, who can look to the past with respect and to the future with boldness.